£35 including delivery. 🙂
The car was sold as spares or repair due to the transmitter battery cover being missing. As I’ll be using my own transmitter anyway this is not an issue. The car looked like new.
The pictures in this post are of the car after about 10 runs and do show some marks but when the car was delivered it was like new. With only a little surface rust on the front turnbuckle being the only way to tell it was not new.
The car has it’s original wheels and tyres and came complete with brushed 20 turn motor and ESC. I originally thought I’d convert the car to a brushless setup. After taking the car out and watching it wheely off from a standstill in it’s current setup this is just not required. This car was purchased for fun and a little jumping so speed is not really an important factor and it has plenty for this.
The car is a 2WD design so only the rear wheels have power. I’m used to 4WD cars as this is what I use every day at my local track. This 2WD truck is just as controllable and with the nobbly tyres is perfect for grass and off-road fun.
The suspension has loads of movement and my only complaint is in it’s stock setup it’s a little to soft if you want to get rough with it. I’ll be working on firming that up a little later.
The car does not have dogbones like most cars for drive. It has plastic shafts that automatically adjust length depending on suspension movement. This is a little strange at first as I’d have thought it weaker than metal dogbones. I’ve seen Rustler VXL’s doing 100+ MPH usaing these plastic shafts so they must be up to the job. I’ve added a little silicon oil to them to help with movement and reduce wear.
The car has turnbuckles on the front wheels for steering adjustment. Mine have a little surface rust on them. This is due to the previous owner keeping the car in a garage that was a little wet. Again i’ve coated them in GT85 to stop any further rust. it’s ony mild surface rust and when I next strip the car I’ll remove it.
Motor and Battery
The battery hangs over the rear of the car behind the rear diff. This is a great design as it means the car is placing most of the weight on the rear wheels. It also means the car is a little rear heavy so full power normally means a wheel
The motor mount is a standard fitting so brushless power is always an option later if I feel more power is necessary. I like to use brushless motors as they seem to run cooler, offer bettery battery life and you’ve always got the option of running them on 11.1v 3s.
One thing I did do on this car was put the original battery in my spares box and solder on some 4mm babana plugs. I run all my cars on lipos and the banana plugs are great at handling the extra amps.
I have a few 2s lipo batteries that are the same size as standard nicads and they make excellent upgrades. Lipo batteries can provide more amps for longer and as such are faster than standard batteries especially if you are using NiMi batteries over NiCads.
I’ve taken the car out 10 times now and the original ESC is perfectly able to handle the Lipo battery with no issues. The ESC gets warm but not hot.
The other week I was bored with the kids and thought. “Lets go out and give them something fun to watch”.
20 mins later I had a makeshift ramt made out of some ply board and some concrete blocks. For the first few runs I had the angle low and the ramp about 1ft high. It was great fun. Very controlled and every langing perfect even at full throttle. I was able to jet distance jumps of around 14ft.
I figured I’d increase the incline and height of the ramp. So a few mins later I have a ramp thats about 2ft high. All I’ll say is I cannot wait to get somewhere where I have the space to jump a proper full size car.
I was getting about 10ft of height and about 12ft of distance from a half throttle run. Again nearly every landing was perfect.
I’ve never jumped before but I’ll be popping over to my local skate part frequently to have more fun. My kids think it’s amazing.
All in all this car is amazing.
One thing I did notide is that the original shocks are a little soft. Whilst this makes the car great on a rough surface and for small jumps. Larger jumps need stronger firmer shocks.
I’ve repaced the shock springs with some firmer ones form teh spares box and this has made a great difference to the landing.
I’ve watched a number of YouTube videos about the Rustler and Rustler VXL. A number of people have installed Helicopter Gyros. These gyros give you better control of the car during a slide as it will auto corerct the steering in a slide.
I purchased one of these on eBay for £11 delivered from Hong Kong and whilst I’ve not actually taken the car out for a run with it installed it does seem to make a big difference when pllayed with on the lounge wood flooring. I’ll update the post when I’ve taken it for a proper run.
The existing tyres are unglued and do not have foam in. I presume this is to allow then to absorb some of the impact when jumping. I find that they baloon to much for my liking and I’ll probably get some foam for them and glue them to the rims. failing that I may put some of the wheels from the VXL onto it or take some of the tyres from my Thunder Tiger and give them a go.